It was never just a restaurant. It was a stage, a boardroom, a see-and-be-seen theater of American power. To talk about the Four Seasons is to talk about the architecture of Philip Johnson, the social anthropology of the "Power Lunch," and the gustatory evolution of American fine dining. It is a story of how a room designed by geniuses, run by eccentrics, and fed by perfectionists became the most important restaurant in the history of New York City. The story begins not with a chef, but with a chemist. Samuel Bronfman, the Canadian distiller who built the Seagram whiskey empire, wanted a headquarters that would shame its competitors. He commissioned Ludwig Mies van der Rohe to build a tower of amber glass and bronze—the Seagram Building, an icon of International Style architecture.
It was, simply, the best.
One legendary story involves a publishing executive who died during a meal. His body was quietly wheeled out through the kitchen so as not to disturb the nearby table where the CEO of Time Inc. was eating. While the room was Johnson’s masterpiece, the food was Baum’s revolution. Before the Four Seasons, American fine dining meant French classical cuisine: heavy sauces, soufflés, Escoffier. Baum and his chef, Albert Stockli , created "American Seasonal" cuisine before anyone coined the phrase. menu four seasons restaurant nyc
Chefs who passed through the Four Seasons kitchen included , Christian Albin , and Seppi Renggli —men who taught New Yorkers that a vegetable could be the star of a plate. Part IV: The Fall and The Ghost No empire lasts forever. By the 1990s, the "Power Lunch" had moved downtown to Nobu and the Waverly Inn. The Grill Room’s air grew slightly musty. The pink marble, once futuristic, felt dated. It was never just a restaurant
Baum was a visionary. He believed that a restaurant could be a destination, a piece of theater. He gave Johnson a mandate: build a room that changes with the seasons, a room so beautiful that people would weep. Johnson delivered. It is a story of how a room
You must be logged in to post a comment.