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In the West, we have coffee shops. In Japan, they have kissaten (喫茶店)—or “ kissa ” for short. And if you think you know coffee, you haven’t truly tasted it until you’ve slid into a red vinyl booth in a basement in Ginza.

Have you ever been to a kissaten? What’s the quirkiest old café you’ve found? Let me know in the comments below. Want a map of the last standing legendary kissa in Tokyo? Subscribe below for the PDF guide.

Why a gloomy, smoke-stained café might serve the best cup of your life.